Dressmaking, Seams, Zippers and Buttonholes – Philippa Naylor

Essential skills to use in all your garment sewing – from simple everyday clothing to wearable art to creative couture.Explore and make samples of a range of seams for use with a wide range of different fabrics, including:Hong Kong bound seams for unlined outerwear, French seams for fine and sheer fabrics, decorative flat fell seams for statement details. Discovering how to press seams of different types and in different fabrics will be covered carefully as good pressing is as important as good sewing techniques.Learn how to insert a zipper perfectly by machine and also using a fine hand stitched method employed by couture houses. We will be using a technique that I have developed to eliminate the unsightly bulk at the top of the zipper where it meets the neck or waistline facing.Make a sample of a bound buttonhole used widely in designer garments, and in doing this learn how this same technique is utilised for inserted welt pockets in the best tailoring tradition.The day will be invaluable in helping you achieve success with your garment sewing and you will be inspired to develop your skills further and to continue making high quality individual garments that you will be proud to wear!Student Requirements    1.    Sewing machine and extension cord. Please be sure to bring your machine slide on table and knee bar if you have one. A straight stitch plate is also useful.Also bring your accessory box and sewing machine manual with you. This is important. You might also want to give your machine a clean and oil if this is not something you do regularly!    2.    Three different fat quarters of cotton fabric. Include a Batik fabric in this selection for its high thread count.    3.    A fat quarter sized piece of medium weight wool or wool mix fabric that is not too loosely woven.    4.     A fat quarter sized piece of a soft, fluid and silky fabric such as might be used in a woman’s scarf.    5.     A small range of sewing thread to include some general purpose polyester thread and some tacking thread. I like to use Superior Threads ‘Bottomline’ 60 weight polyester thread for fine fabrics.    6.    Rotary cutter and mat.    7.    Ruler minimum 12” long.    8.    Fine straight pins.    9.    A tape measure.    10.    Two zippers approximately 7” (18cm) in length.    11.    Scissors for paper, fabric and thread cutting.    12.    The following sewing machine feet: quarter inch foot, zipper foot, open toe satin stitch foot.    13.    A small selection of buttons of various sizes.    14.    Small amount of medium weight fusible interfacing (Vilene or Pellon type).    15.    A water spritzer.    16.    Paper, notebook and pens.    17.    Portable ironing surface and iron if available (not everyone will need their own).    18.    Hand sewing needles    19.    Sewing machine needles    Detailed colour photocopies and other sundries £3.00